![]() It was nice to work with such a quiet and lightweight tool. Even if the pneumatic sander you're using is quiet, all air tools are AIR HOGS - even tiny air tools, this means the air compressor is going to run often and these tend to be loud. The 3D brushless electric sander, unlike most pneumatic sanders is quiet. By this I mean as I was sanding I wasn't creating tons of dry sanding dust, just a little and by the time I wiped the section I was sanding and then used this same towel to clean the face of the sanding disc the dust was hardly noticeable.Īt the start of each day, early in the morning while there was no wind outside the shop, I took a leaf blower and simply blew off the truck, the ground and anything nearby out the shop door. And the dust issue? When you're working with #1500 and #2500 grit 3D Sanding Discs, it wasn't bad at all. Wearing a mask wasn't the hassle I thought it would be. Mostly because of the dust on the car, the dust in the shop and because the entire time I would have to wear some form of breathing protection. ![]() The first time I used the 3D Dry Sanding System I was thinking I wasn't going to like it. It really comes down to personal preference for the most part. With dry sanding the paint particles you abrade off can become airborne and this means you need to wear some form of personal protection equipment, (an air respirator or dust mask), and you accept that the shop is going to get dusty. When you dry sand, instead of dealing with wiping away the sanding slurry, (water with abraded paint particles embodied in it), you must wipe the section sanded with a clean microfiber towel and also clean the face of the pad with a clean microfiber towel to remove paint that build-up. The good news is the paint particles are trapped in the sanding water so you don't have to wear any personal protection equipment as the dust particles are not airborne. ![]() And of course the slurry via gravity drains downward onto the floor. It runs down the cracks, crevices, body seams and other intricate areas of the car that cannot be wiped. ![]() One other downside is the slurry gets everywhere. it's messy.Īnd as you sand down the car, section by section you're always drying the slurry off the section you just sanded so you can visually inspect the surface in order to determine if you need to sand more or you can move on to new territory. This approach works great except for one thing. The majority of my life I have always wet-sanded by hand first to knock down orange peel or surface texture followed by machine damp sanding to refine and level the hand sanding marks to make them faster and cooler to buff out. With machine damp sanding you can kind of do this except you're either wiping the panel dry, (takes time), or after wiping off excess water, simply waiting for any water to evaporate, (takes time), so you can determine if you've sanded enough or need to continue sanding. Unlike machine wet sanding or machine damp sanding as it's called, machine dry sanding is faster and easier procedure because with a quick wipe of the panel to remove paint dust you can determine if the panel is flat to your expectations and move or or if more sanding is needed. Ind the custom car world, fresh paint jobs are sanded flat to maximize the D.O.I. In the body shop world, fresh paint is sanded often to either remove orange peel or lessen orange peel to match factory orange peel. ![]()
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